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I recently returned from a quick trip to New Mexico. Having lived there for a couple of years in the early 80s it always feels good to rekindle the unique feel that only New Mexico can offer. I personally much prefer the New Mexico experience to that of the Colorado experience but that's just me. I know alot of people are uncomfortable with the Native American influence and all that adobe. But of course to me that is the source of the true charm of those rugged mountains and all together the elements seem to conjure up a kind of spiritual spell you inevitably fall under which is known, of course, as simple enchantment.
Although both Albuquerque and Denver lie at the base of the Rockies there is a drastic contrast to their atmospheres due to topographic chance. In Denver the city lies just to the east of the mountains providing for unobstructed sunrises but also shutting off direct sun by the late afternoon. In Albuquerque just the opposite occurs, where the Sandias border it on the east and the city just rolls away down the valley toward the Rio Grande in the west. So early morning is usually quiet and peaceful while the sun rises behind Sandia Peak and then at dusk the sun sets to the west beyond the distant mountains, plateaus and mesas.
Anyway, we spent a day or so in Albuquerque visiting the old haunts. La Placita in Old Town and the incredible Greek food at Yanni's on Central near UNM. We decided to take the Turquoise Trail to Santa Fe but first on a whim chose to drive up to the Sandia Crest. A storm was closing in as we neared the top and by the time we descended heading north the lightning and rain began. Quite mesmerizing.
We usually stop for at least a few hours in Santa Fe but this time being ensconced by a dreary rain we sped past and onward. I was relieved to escape the crowded streets of Santa Fe and by the time we made Espanola the rain had stopped. We visited the Black Mesa winery and bought a bottle of wine after tasting a few miserly samples... must say the salesman lacked friendliness (as reflected quite tidily in the size of his samples) and we probably shouldn't have bought a thing but what can I tell you?.. I guess I'm just a wino.
Taos was great! Although it is surrounded by large mountains to the east and north it opens up to a large rolling valley toward the west much like Albuquerque allowing for glorious sunsets. Ah, the morning air was cool and pure and tinged ever so lightly with pinon.
We drove the Enchanted Circle which is an eighty-mile scenic stretch that visits Angel Fire, Eagles Nest and Red River.
The first segment of the Enchanted Circle winds its way through a tight canyon with gurgling stream (and the streams were full this time of year with snow melt-off). After about twenty miles of this the road opens up and you descend into a valley and off in the distance you can see the ski trails of Angel Fire as the town sits at the bottom of the mountain.
Near Angel Fire is a very unique Vietnam War Veteran's Memorial that we visited. Having read the O'Brien books recently I have become quite informed and affected by the war that was fought when I was just a kid. Make no mistake about it, this country would have been very different IF we had not lost 55,000 men in that lost cause. Just take a look at some of the pictures of the men at this Memorial... they were bright and strong. They could have been leaders.
And right now we need leaders.
The Memorial is situated up on a small ridge just northwest of Angel Fire and features two small buildings: a museum with photos and memorabilia from the war and a very beautiful and unique chapel. While in the museum a television was playing a tape of one of Bob Hope's Christmas shows for the troops and you could hear the men singing "Silent Night." I teared up as I listened to that song of peace while looking at the photos of young men with big smiles on their faces who died in faraway country. Very very sad.
And then it was back out to a beautiful June morning on the Enchanted Drive and we quickly drove past Eagles Nest with its sparkling lake and headed towards Red River. This vacation spot rests only about twenty or so miles south of the Colorado border and it has more of that state's vibe as it looks like a mining community with its wooden old west architecture. We stopped to stretch our legs a bit and grab a little early lunch splitting a chicken salad sandwich and a healthy slice of tasty cherry pie (good for the gout wink wink).
On our way back toward Taos and the completion of the circle we stopped by a stream and just sat and listened awhile. The smell of pinon was strong and the water ran fast and clear.
Well... I have failed to mention Wheeler Mountain, the highest point in New Mexico. I have recently become interested in the HighToppers club (scaling the highest point in all fifty American states) and Wheeler is New Mexico's. I certainly didn't expect to scale it this day as it is a major undertaking. However, I had been told that a good look of the peak could be had if we drove a little off the beaten path and hiked a few miles.
So we drove to the Taos Ski Valley and eventually found Twining Road which was really just a narrow dirt trail that led almost straight up at times. To be honest now I felt a little nervous as we twisted around unguarded curves and lurched upward while a few other cars descended past us in a tight fit. Lou Ann was not very happy and let me know about it which of course only added to my own tension.
The road went on longer than either of us cared for but finally we reached the trail head. There were quite a few others cars there and hikers out and about. We soon joined them.
This Williams Lake Trail is a two-mile in two-mile out hike through a wooded canyon with gurgling streams and tall peaks sprouting all around you. Your destination is Williams Lake itself and then it is my understanding Wheeler Peak can be ascended from this base.
We never made it. The snow was too deep in places and we certainly didn't have the right hiking attire for that. The temperature was actually comfortable and not as cold as I had been previously warned. All the same, after about thirty minutes of trudging along (I wouldn't necassarily call it hiking) we turned back. Still, it was fun and good excercise.
Next time I plan on attacking Wheeler. Maybe August would be a good time when most if not all of the snow might be gone.
So we cruised down Twining Road feeling somewhat tired yet exhilerated and headed back to Taos. Enchanted and ready for supper!
Make mine with green chile'.
